Report on our virtual meeting 18-02-2021 Snags & Solutions.

Our meeting on the 18th February 2021 was to be all about dealing with snags and finding solutions to those snags, it was being handled by John Ruickbie but due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions it had to be turned into a virtual meeting. You were all invited to put something forward for this meeting, John did put in a very comprehensive report on a spinning wheel he worked on that threw up some problems he had to find solutions for. In addition to John’s report, Geoff Potter put in a suggestion rather than a snag that I thought warranted publication. I have also put forward something along the same lines as Geoff, Dave Line also put in a presentation for the solution of needing a drum sander, but we will start with John Ruickbie’s presentation,

Making a model spinning wheel

Most of my work now involves working with several pieces of wood and other materials such as metal or plastic.  The work requires extensive research and design this is about my efforts at making a  spinning wheel.

An old family friend made one in the 19 60s and I had it in a bag but it was broken beyond repair I think even for the repair shop. I was intrigued about how the section called the mother of all ran at two speeds driven from one drive wheel. The twist of the wool depends on the flyer running at a different speed from the bobbin. On line I was able to research this and discovered the two items had different sized pulleys driven by a continuous double loop drive band. The drive wheel was the first part I turned and soon got into difficulties.  The holes in the rim for the spokes could not be drilled in a completed wheel as they do not go through and must be drilled from the inside so I resolved this by turning it in four sections with newspaper joints. For those who have not used this technique it involves spreading glue on the joint and rubbing the surfaces together to get an even spread on each face then parting and clamping with a single layer of newspaper in the joint allowing the joint to be parted with a knife later on. Care has to be taken when turning to avoid stressing the joint .l  kept the sections deeper than required and turned the outer rim first and secured it with a cable tie  before finishing the inner rim .This method allowed me to mark the required holes before opening the joints. Please remember to mark the sections for reassembly Care has to be taken to avoid a hole in a joint pre planning is required to avoid this by altering the number of spokes or wheel segments. I do have another solution to this problem but it takes a lot of explaining so will leave it for another time. The hub is straight forward and can be drilled using the lathe indexing and a drilling guide which can be made from a block of wood fitted in place of the tool rest. Purpose made ones can be purchased but a temporary wood one will with care probably do one wheel. The spokes need to be identical and can be turned using a template. It is important to have the length accurate as the hub centre depends on this.

Assembling the wheel is best done with a jig I use a MDF jig with a central rod for the hub and the hub and rim dimensions carefully turned. A dry run is essential before gluing. Clean up the newspaper faces then do a complete glue up in one go. Keep the joints clean of excess glue and clamp with a cable tie.

A problem arose with this method of assembly . The wheel had glue joints which needed sanded and two decorative lines were required on the sides of the wheel. I overcame this problem by making  a jamb chuck to hold the wheel and finished each side using the rotating centre  in the hub. The jamb chuck must have the centre at the correct depth to support the hub otherwise the pressure from the centre  will cause it to distort. The inner surface was finished before assembly requiring light hand finishing at the joints. The outer surface of the wheel requires a raised lip on each side allowing the drive cord to run in the centre. I found this fitted on the Cole jaws allowing the buttons to be fitted between the spokes using minimum pressure and light cuts. I also cut a circle of thin ply to go between the jaws and the rim to avoid striking the jaw sections. The rim faces could have been done this way but I was concerned that it would have been easy to strike the buttons when turning. The section called the mother of all consorts of a hollow shaft with a free running bobbin on it with the larger pulley attached to the bobbin. The flyer is a u shaped section attached to the shaft with the smaller pulley allowing it to spin faster than the bobbin. On full size working wheels the pulleys can be changed to alter the twist of the yarn. This assembly is attached to two vertical posts called maidens mounted on a horizontal shaft. Those parts are turned with a design complementing the spokes and finishing in heads to accept the shaft and the shaft drilled to accept the maidens. This assembly moves to allow the drive cord to be tensioned . I used a small hollow brass rod from the local DIY store for the shaft. Another problem solved. The assembly is mounted on a turned block with a Tenon in a slot in the base which I drilled and cut a half inch thread in it this is controlled by means of a half inch wooden screwed rod with a knob attached. When I made this I discovered my old threading tool was damaged so I had to buy a new set and remake the parts. Another problem was that the mahogany wood did not take a good thread but I had a very old piece which was ok with very careful cutting and plenty of linseed oil. The threads are hidden so I did not worry about the oil on the wood. The tenon  which runs in the tensioning slot did take a good thread.

I use a small lathe for turning smaller parts using pen turning tools and a small skew chisel allowing me to get finer detail. The flyer was cut on the scroll saw and hand finished it is glued to the shaft which runs through the bobbin allowing the bobbin to run independently with the shaft whorl (pulley) glued at the far end. On a full working wheel this could be removed to allow the bobbin to be changed. The bobbin has a fixed whorl which could be changed on a full working model. The assembly of this section can be seen in the close up picture. The hooks on the flyer are just small sections of copper wire and would be used to guide the yarn on to the bobbin. This is how the flyer and bobbin can run at different speeds

I have also included  a picture of some of the parts of the old spinning wheel along with my first failed threaded shaft.


 The base and legs are just an oblong block with three legs the legs designed in sympathy with the other components. The base is at an angle requiring the holes for the legs to be drilled at the correct angles I made a drawing of this to ensure both the angle and the length were correct. The drawing can be full scale and does not need to be detailed. I guessed the base angle as i could find no reference as to what was correct I made it 80 degrees from vertical with the single leg at 90 and the two shorter legs at 60 to the base block.
One problem was  the single long leg was under the tensioning device which I overcame by fitting a block under the main block requiring the leg to be shortened. The drive wheel is driven by a treadle mounted between two of the legs with a crank fitted through the boss of the wheel . The treadle is connected to the crank by a strip of wood tied to the treadle and clipped to the crank by means of a keyhole slot in the wood strip.
This assembly is shown in a picture of the back of the wheel showing the crank arrangement. The crank was made from solid brass rod 3mm diamond which was bent on a jig which is shown in one of the pictures. I had to have this made as my metal lathe skills are zero.
Once assembled I used builders twine as the drive cord which was tricky to do but when I managed to make it work it made all the effort worthwhile.
I went through the same procedure when making the model of Mons Meg but had accurate drawings to work from. This may seem a lot of effort but it is a hobby and being able to achieve something that is accurate or works make it worth the effort. The latest project is a model Viking ship for my grandson.

Regards, John Ruickbie.

I have to thank John for his comprehensive report on the spinning wheel, along with this presentation John told me that he was no writer, I have to say I beg to differ. Thanks John.

Now we have something from Geoff Potter, this is not a snag but it could be classed as a solution. He has come up with a form of branding to mark your work pieces.

HINTS  AND  TIPS – BRANDING

If your piece of woodturning is good then I think it’s a great idea to sign or mark your work.

1, I have a quick easy method of doing that and it may be done on the finished or part- finished item.

I have bent small pieces of plate metal to form letters of my initials.

2, You simply hold the letter end wise on in a pair of pliers or tongs, heat the letter to red hot then brand the turning, usually on the base. It leaves an indelible mark. I have made two sizes of letters to suit different sized turnings. The mark shows up well against even dark wood. The beauty is that the mark is also repeatable.

repeatable.

3, By using bent plate – the letter holds more heat and the letter is more rigid.

Anyone who has welding or rivetting skills could form the two letters into one object. The shape is not confined to initials – you could use any design of mark.

Keep it simple.

This is the end result of my efforts.

4, To use this method you will need some of this equipment and material.

Scrap Metal  any thin scrap metal will do. It is easiest to use aluminium if you can as it is easier to cut and shape. Beware of overheating the aluminium though when you are branding.

Cutters and pliers for shaping the metal. A vice, saw and files are handy. The branding face of the metal letter needs to be flat so that you get an even mark.

Mole grips or spring loaded tongs – these have a better positive grip than pliers for holding the hot metal letters when you are branding.

Blowlamp – mine has a clipped-on broad base to keep it stable on the work surface whilst you are heating the letters.

Heat proof board or metal sheet to protect your bench from the hot metal and blowlamp.

Because of the danger from flames, hot metal and some slight fumes it is best to do your branding outdoors on a workbench or on the ground. Snow covered ground is optional! If you do it indoors then use ventilation and make sure that you protect your work surface and keep clear of absolutely anything flammable. Or do it on the concrete floor if you have one.

Do not do the branding anywhere near your lathe! Wood dust and shavings are highly flammable and can actually be explosive.

It may seem obvious but I would recommend you use sturdy gloves and have a fire extinguisher to hand, certainly if you are indoors. Don’t leave the lit blowlamp unattended.

Of course some Highland Woodturners’ Club members will have pyrography equipment and could do the same thing but perhaps freehand each time. I know also that there are a very few members who can use their laser cutting/burning printer.

It is probably also a good idea to add information about the type of wood and maybe the source of the wood to the base of your woodturned article too. It all adds interest.

Using an ink marker successfully depends on the type of wood and the drawback of possible bleeding of the ink. A good old pencil is a good choice. Pencil does not fade and does not bleed. I would suggest a fairly soft pencil as if it is too hard it will leave a dent and make a fainter mark.

You may need to rest your wrist on a box or block so that you can write accurately.

The use of latin names may add a certain kudos. Acer Psuedoplantanus  sounds better and more mysterious than sycamore?

It is probably best to apply any writing before applying finishes, so that the finish also protects the writing. Be careful not to blur the writing! Always practice everything on a spare piece of wood.

A simpler but less permanent way to mark your turning is to simply stick a paper label underneath!

GEOFF POTTER

Now we have something from Dave Line, Dave solved the problem of not wanting to spend a lot of money on a drum sander, here is Dave’s solution, and this is what Dave had to say about his solution.

   Hi Alec, I thought I would show the drum sander I have made for my Lathe (since I can’t afford a sanding thicknesser).

I use it mainly to get my segmented rings dead flat and of uniform thickness when segmenting turning ready for gluing. It is also useful for sanding almost anything flat I.E. sacrificial chuck mounts for bowls.

The drum is 400mm long and 75mm diameter, I find a speed of about 1000rpm works best.

The first picture shows the sander mounted on the lathe ready for use.

The second picture shows the bolt at the back for altering the thickness.

The third picture shows the base and how it is attached to the lathe bed using the two blocks under the bed and tightened.

Dave Line’s drum sander, well done Dave, keep coming up with these little gems of information.

As the last entry for this post it comes from myself and as I mentioned earlier it’s something along the same lines as Geoff has suggested only this piece of equipment came with quite a high price tag, I have a Laser Engraver Cutter.

Top left, this is my standard type engraving on the bottom of every item, Top right, some of the designs that can be done inside a bowl, Bottom left, another type of engraving possible, this time to the top edge of the bowl, Bottom Right, the Celtic design was cut with the laser and inserted into the lid of a box, the colours were the result of using some Milliput.

Our next meeting is due on the 4th March it too is being organised by John Ruickbie, John’s theme for that meeting will be making goblets, this will also be a virtual meeting and you are all invited to make and share your goblet with us.

Do remember the Clubhouse remains closed.

Our next virtual meeting 18-02-2021 Snags, solutions and Ideas.

Our next meeting should be on Thursday 18th February 2021, this meeting had to be changed into a virtual meeting due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions. The meeting was to be arranged by John Ruickbie and John’s theme for the meeting was to be, Snags, Solutions & Ideas. I have already received some information from John on this meeting and some other input from another source. The feature picture at the top of this post deals with some of the information I have already, more will be revealed after the meeting date.

I’m sure most of you will have encountered a situation where you have met a snag and had to deal with it, let us know about it, tell us your solution and what other ideas you have to further your woodturning. I invite you all to tell me what snags and solutions you may have had in the past and what ideas you have for the future.

This is a spinning wheel that John worked on, on the way he encountered some problems that needed to be solved, the rest of this story will be included in the post after the meeting.

Do send me any pictures or just the story of anything you came up against during your woodturning, or of any ideas you may want to pass on.

You can also send me pictures and text on any subject matter you have been working on since our last virtual meeting.

Send them to me at,

a.j.mutch4321@btinternet.com

You will have until Friday 19th February to send me your entry, do remember you can enter more than one item and as many pictures as you like.

Remember the clubhouse remains closed.

Report on our virtual meeting 04-02-2021 AGM.

Our meeting on the 4th February should have been our AGM (Annual General Meeting), however this was not possible due to the Covid-19 restrictions, instead we prepared a summary of the 2020 years events that was presented by myself as Chairman, Geoff potter as Secretary and Cliff Sim as Treasurer, it will be our intention to have an AGM as soon as we are able to return to meetings safely, this is required for us to meet our constitutional obligations.

As for this meeting on the 4th February 2021, I put out a request for you all to make something or to send me pictures of things you had made in the past, I have to say there was a slight improvement in the number of people who took the time to send me their pictures. I don’t want you all to feel complaisant about this increase, all be it modest, I want you all to keep sending me your pictures or indeed anything else of interest.

Now for this weeks presentations, first up we have Mike Day with a few pictures and this is what he had to say about his entry.

Hi Alec,
Please find attached photos and blurb as my submission for the next lot for the website.
I’m sorry I don’t have a complete set of photos, as once I get into it I completely forget to stop and take them.

This is a lighthouse I made for my son as a Christmas present.
The main part of the lighthouse is Yew. The base and the two pieces above and below the ‘light’ are Elm. I had the idea to use a coloured glass ball as a ‘light’ so that it could be put on a windowsill and would catch the sunlight and ‘glow’.

I started by roughing the Yew log to round and then began to taper it towards one end to resemble a lighthouse tower. I occasionally stopped and used the straight edge of a ruler to make sure the taper was straight. Once I was happy with it I used the point of a skew chisel to make grooves at measured intervals. I then used some wire to burn lines in the grooves. After this was done, I then applied some sanding sealer and friction polish. I parted off the main piece and put this aside.
 
I then used a small piece of Elm on the lathe with which to make the base and the two pieces above and below the ‘light’. I shaped each piece in turn, applied sanding sealer and friction polish and parted it off. I then moved on to the next section until all three were done.

With all parts completed I was able to move on to assembling it. The 4 pillars around the glass ball are 4mm nylon rod which I found on ebay. I drilled corresponding 4mm holes in the top and base of the light housing and glued in the rod top and bottom, inserting the glass ball half way through.

I hadn’t originally intended to mount it on an Elm burr but decided after the fact that it just needed it. The burr makes for a very effective rocks effect. I gave the burr 3 coats of spray lacquer.

Regards,

Mike Day

Here we can see Mike in his newly erected workshop making a start on his project.
Mike’s yew log he used on the left and the first of his turning on the right.
These 3 pictures show the process Mike was following.

John Ruickbie is next with a very nice table lamp, this is what John had to say about his entry,

I won some square pieces of oak at the Christmas raffle . This is how I used them. We required another table lamp so I glued them up with some thin sections of teak which left a recess in the centre avoiding long hole boring. The base was of similar construction but as I had no oak big enough I used elm. When assembling this type of construction it is important to keep right angles and consistent infill thickness to ensure line continuity.

Regards,

John Ruickbie.

John Ruickbie’s table lamp.

Next we have Dave Line, Dave is a regular contributor to the web site, here is his entries and what he had to say about them,

Hi Alec,

Here are a couple of items I have made this year. The first is a natural edge bowl (wood not known), it is 110mm high and 140mm dia.

The second 2 is a lamp, the base is Sycamore and the open segments are Sycamore and Sapele. Again a little problem with chipping when turning the segmented portion. The height is 265mm high and 145mm dia.

Stay safe Dave Line.

Dave, the wood is Laburnum and very nice too.
Here are the 2 pictures of Dave’s lamp, unlit and lit up.

Next we have an entry from David Ross, another regular contributor, here is what David had to say about his entry,

Hi Alec 

Hope you and your good lady are both well

I made a pedestal box from Yew and Black Palm Wood it is 270mm (10 1/2 inches) high and 110mm (4 1/2 inches) diameter there is small pieces of acrylic fitted to underside if lid and base I also used brass dust and glue to fill some voids and yew sawdust and glue to fill other voids.

David Ross.

Here are 2 pictures of David’s pedestal box.

Next we have an entry from Nick Simpson, Nick has also been a very regular contributor to the web site, here he has used a very unusual piece of wood to great effect. Here is what Nick had to say about his entry.

Hi Alec

As promised 2 photos for the virtual AGM. As everyone will recognize this is a monkey puzzle platter. It measures 17” (432 mm) diameter and is 5.5mm thick at the edge. It almost shows the confluence of the branches which lies between the front and back faces. It requires painstaking positioning of the original ‘blank ‘to get the plane right even when you get one of those rare pieces where the branches all come off at the same height.

A near miss!

Regards

Nick Simpson.

Nick’s Monkey puzzle platter.

Now for a few items from myself, most were done some time in the past but I’ll show you them anyway, as you will see not all turned.

These are some of my Pebeo bowls, all are about 200mm in diameter by about 30mm deep, 1 and 4 are Ash, 2 and 3 are Sweet Chestnut.
Some more bowls to show you that there are many different types of bowls and many different ways to make them. 5, is a Wych Elm bowl with beaded inner rim, 6, is a Cherry natural edged bowl, 7, is a Spalted Beech bowl, and 8, is a Beech bowl with a Laser etched rim.
Now for something completely different, 9, is a Skeleton clock set into a Walnut surround, 10, is a piece of Burr Elm made into a natural edged bowl, 11, is a candle table centre piece, made for a local church from Local Elm, 12, 2 shallow dishes made with twin recesses for sweets or trinkets from highly decorative Beech.

Our next meeting should be on the 18th February, this meeting is being arranged by John Ruickbie, John was to include in his presentation, looking at snags and solutions and possible ideas, more to come on this shortly.

Do remember the clubhouse remains closed.

Our next virtual meeting 04-02-2021 Our AGM

Our next meeting should be on the 4th February 2021, it would have been our AGM (Annual General Meeting) however it’s not possible to have this meeting under the current lock down regulations instead we have prepared a report from 2020 that all the current members will be in receipt of by email, this report will have a statement from the Chairman, the Secretary and the Treasurer and will be issued on the 4th February. We are having a virtual meeting on the same day and you are all invited to make something of your choosing on any subject, this can be anything at all, a picture of your work made for this meeting or something that you had made previously, or just an interesting story about anything that has happened to you or your turning in the past, we would all like to hear what you have been doing during the lock down.

I have included a few pictures of things that I had made in the past and a couple that are more recent, I’m sure you will all have a collection of pictures of things you had made, why not send a few of those to me for publication on our web site.

1, A shallow plate made from Ash, Mahogany and Purpleheart. 2, An Ash natural edged bowl. 3, A small box made from Elm and Ebony. 4, A spalted Beech bowl. 5, A natural edged bowl made from Leylandii, turned end grain.
6, A vase made from a piece of Burr Elm. 7, A couple of double dished bowls made from our Common Beech. 8, A small clock made from 3 different woods, Goncalo Alves, Beech and Purpleheart.
9, A trivet made from Oak with Padauk inserts and feet, turned on both side to achieve the pierced look. 10, A table lamp made from Oak and stained, it was recycled from an old refectory table leg. 11, A spalted Birch bowl, the bit that’s missing came about as a result of a dead branch that was soft with rot.

Here are but a few examples of my work , now we need to see your work, so please take the time to send me your pictures or a story, the members would be very pleased to see all your efforts.

The meeting is on the 4th February, you will have up to the end of day Friday the 5th February to send me your pictures, don’t forget to include some information with your pictures.

Send them to me at a.j.mutch4321@btinternet.com

Here is a final reminder for anyone who has not renewed their membership that the closing date for existing members is also the 4th February 2021, if you have not renewed on or by that date you will be removed from all access to the members part of the web site and the tips and anecdotes emails.

Remember the clubhouse remains closed.

Report on our virtual meeting 21-01-2021 making wooden toys and puzzles.

Our meeting on the 21st January 2021 was all about making wooden toys and puzzles, It was being organised by Douglas Stewart but due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions this meeting had to be turned into a virtual meeting. You were all invited to take part in this meeting by making something from the programme. The uptake was as ever very poor with only Nick Simpson and myself contributing to the meeting. Nick’s article wasn’t a toy or a puzzle but a novelty none the less and I felt it was appropriate to be included in this report.

Here is Nick’s submission, including what he had to say about the item.

Hi Alec

Here’s a simple toy compared with the product of the Club’s recognised toy makers.

It is a cracker from Zebrano. Simply made with careful use of forstner bit, parting tool and spindle gouge Nick Simpson.

As I said not an actual toy or puzzle, but an interesting project none the less. Made by Nick Simpson.

I did a few very simple turnings, some spinning tops, a yo-yo and a puzzle project. I also made a small toy canon. All the following items were made by Alec Mutch.

Here are the spinning tops, the top row shows them still attached to the mounting block, the reason for this is that they were all finished with a spray lacquer and had to dry, I did several coats to achieve the high gloss finish. Once dry they were parted off and the final tips coloured and lacquered.
The top picture will give you the scale of the items, the yo-yo is 75mm in diameter.
Here is my toy canon, made from scraps of wood, it measured 235mm in length by about 80mm high.
This is a little puzzle stick, hard to explain without giving away the secret on how it works, but if you want to make one contact me and all will be revealed. It’s only about 150mm long.
Here I have given you a set of pictures showing the way I made the spinning tops. Fig 1, start with a block 50mm square by 100mm long,, shape the top section, Fig 2, colour the top section using fine felt tip pens of different colours, do this on a slow speed, say 400rpm. Fig 3, shows the bottom shaped and sanded, Fig.4, shows the bottom coloured and the first coats of lacquer applied, allow to dry before further coats are applied, only cut it off when pleased with the finish.

Our next meeting on the 4th February 2021 would have been our AGM (annual general meeting), this can not take place under the present circumstances, however that does not mean we won’t be having a virtual meeting, we will. I want you all to make something, anything of your own choosing and send the pictures and text to me, I’m hoping for a better response than has happened in the last few weeks.

Here too is a final reminder that the 2021 subscriptions are due and anyone not signed up before the AGM meeting on the 4th February will loose their place with the membership. If you don’t want to loose your place contact Geoff or Cliff before the time runs out.

Do remember the clubhouse remains closed.

Our next meeting 21-01-2021 toys and puzzles.

Our next meeting should be on Thursday 21st January 2021, it was to be organized by Douglas Stewart and his project was to be toys and puzzles. However due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions this meeting has been made into a virtual meeting, we would invite you all to still pay attention to the project matter and make something along those lines. Having made your toys or puzzles, send pictures of them on to me for uploading onto our web site and facebook pages along with some information about the things you have made.

I have given you some pictures of wooden toys, these are for ideas only, you can make something similar or have something completely different, any type of toy or puzzle will be acceptable as long as there are some parts of the item you make that have been made on a lathe, you will see by the pictures I have provided that there are elements of other types of woodwork.

These spinning tops are probably the easiest things to make, just be aware that the heavier the stem the harder they are to work.
A farmyard scene with some parts that are not turned.
Here is a nice project for you to do, this spinning top uses a pull cord and a handle and works very well, can be spun at a very high speed and for quite a long time.
A road roller made almost entirely on the lathe, great for young kids.
Another lot of very easy things to make, trees of all shapes and sizes.

Do have a go at some of these or ideas of your own, the members would love to see what you can produce, we have a constant number of internet viewers who follow the facebook and web site pages, what we don’t have is as many club members willing to make items and send them to me.

You will have until Friday 22nd January to make and send your pictures, send them to me at,

a.j.mutch4321@btinternet.com

Don’t forget to include some information on whatever you make.

Do remember the clubhouse remains closed.

Report on our virtual meeting 07-01-2021

Our first meeting of the year was to be held on Thursday 7th January 2021, but due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions this meeting had to be made into a virtual meeting. It was to be organised by Douglas Stewart and the subject matter was making wooden jewellery. You were all invited to take part in the virtual meeting by making something and sending the pictures of the items you made to me for publication on our web site. However the uptake was even less than usual with only 2 members taking part, those were Nick Simpson and myself.

This is what Nick had to say about his entry.

Morning Alec, Happy new Year.

Here are 3 pictures of brooches / shawl pins .They are all made from Cherry and measure approx 65 mm diameter, the pins are ebony. The decorations vary from coloured hot melt glue to pyrography and Bubinga inlay.

Please forgive the clash of tartans!

Kind regards

Nick Simpson.

Brooches by Nick Simpson.
Picture of the front of the brooches.
Picture of the back of the brooches.

I made some ear rings from laminated woods and also from a acrylic blank that would normally be used to make a pen.

These were made from 5 pieces of wood laminated then turned. Made by Alec Mutch.
These were the ear rings made from an acrylic blank. Made by Alec Mutch.

Our next meeting should be on the 21st January 2021, this is also being organised by Douglas Stewart and his subject matter is wooden toys and puzzles, the meeting will be a virtual meeting again, but you are all invited to make something for that meeting. Let us have a much better response to this next meeting than what happened for the last meeting.

Our Secretary Geoff Potter and our Treasurer Cliff Sim are still looking to get the membership renewals for 2021 in as soon as possible, do remember that if you have not renewed your membership by the 4th February 2021 you could find yourself having to go onto the waiting list as we will be taking all those on the waiting list that we have at present and that there is space for, so the sooner you renew your membership the better.

Do remember the clubhouse remains closed.

Our next virtual meeting 07-01-2021 wooden jewellery.

Our next meeting should be on Thursday 7th January 2021, however due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions this meeting will not be taking place at our clubhouse instead we are making this meeting a virtual meeting online only. It was to be organised by Douglas Stewart and the subject matter was making wooden Jewellery, we are inviting you all to make something along this line, it can be a neckless, a pair of ear rings, a bangle or anything related to jewellery.

Whatever you make take some pictures and send them to me along with some information on what you have made and from what wood etc, I will post them on our web site and facebook page, we are looking to get a good response to this subject from as many of you as possible.

Here are a few ideas for items of jewellery made from wood.

Here are just a few ideas, you do not need to follow any of these exactly but use them for examples of what can be made, but put your own take on them.

Send your pictures and text to me at,

a.j.mutch4321@btinternet.com.

You have until Friday 8th February 2021 to get your pictures to me.

On a different note, I have just received the information on those who have paid their subscription for 2021, it would appear that only 1/3 of our 2020 membership have paid for the 2021 membership. We know the club has all but ceased to function due to the Covid-19 pandemic, but it is still very important that you all take up your membership as you would normally have done in order for the club to survive. So please renew your membership before the AGM meeting that would have been held on the 4th February 2021.

We do have several people on our waiting list wanting to join the club who will be offered a place should there be spaces after the 4th February 2021, anyone who has not renewed their membership by that date will loose their place or have to go back onto the waiting list.

We hope 2021 will be a better year for the club, but in the meantime keep safe and we hope to see you all later in the year.

Happy new year for 2021.

The committee for the Highland woodturners would like to wish all their members, friends and on line observers a very Happy New Year, we hope 2021 will bring us back together for our meetings once again now that a vaccine has been found, in the meantime keep safe , follow the rules and save lives.

We will be continuing with the web site and facebook posts as we have been doing since the first lockdown, if any of you have anything to contribute to the website for the benefit of the club members, please send them to me and I will make up a post with your information.

On behalf of the committee for Highland Woodturners have a happy new year and we hope to see you all as soon as possible.

Christmas Greetings. 2020

The committee for Highland Woodturners would like to take this opportunity to wish all our members, friends and on line observers a very merry Christmas. We hope to resume our meetings as soon as is possible in 2021, in the meantime stay safe and we hope to see you all some time in the coming year.